Brasov

Brasov, a medieval Saxon town surrounded by verdant Transylvanian hills, is one of Romania's most visited places. It was in Brasov that the first public opposition to the Ceausescu regime occurred - in 1987 thousands of disgruntled workers, angered by wage cuts, long hours, and rationing, took to the streets demanding basic foodstuffs. Ceausescu's response was to call in the troops (three people were killed) and cut rations even further. Brasov's main attraction is the Black Church, said to be the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul. The church's name comes from its blackened appearance following a fire in 1689.

Many people use Brasov as a base for visiting nearby attractions. The main magnet for tourists is Bran Castle, commonly known as 'Dracula's Castle', 30km (18.6 mi) south of Brasov. Despite popular myth, the castle has no links with Vlad Tepes, the medeivel prince most often associated with everyone's favorite vampire. And, with its fairytale turrets and whitewashed walls, the castle is not exactly menacing. Less touristy and more dramatic is Rasnov Castle, en route to Bran Castle from Brasov. The ski resorts of Poiana Brasov and Sinaia are also within easy reach by bus or train from Brasov. Plenty of local and international buses and trains stop at Brasov. The medieval Saxons, with an eye for trade and invasion routes, sited their largest settlements within a day's journey of the Carpathian passes. BRASOV (Kronstadt to the Saxons and Brassó to the Hungarians) was one of the best placed and grew prosperous and fortified as a result, and for many centuries the Saxons there constituted an elite whose economic power long outlasted its feudal privileges. During the 1960s, the Communist regime attempted to create its own skilled working class in the city, and to this end it brought thousands of Moldavian villagers to Brasov, where they were drafted into the new factories and given modern housing. When the economy began collapsing in the 1980s, raised production quotas and cuts in pay at the Red Flag and Tractorul factories led to the riots of November 15, 1987 , during which the Party offices were ransacked and a Militia officer was reportedly killed. Order was restored, but local pride in the rebellion survived, and in December 1989 there was again fighting here. Bullet holes remain as a memorial all over the facade of the university buildings at the east end of Strada Republicii, opposite the graves of some of those killed in the revolution. It seems that most of the casualties here were the victims of "friendly fire". There are two parts to Brasov: the largely Baroque old town coiled beneath Mount Tâmpa and Mount Postavaru, and the surrounding sprawl of apartment blocks and factories. Old Brasov - whose Schei quarter, Black Church and medieval ramparts provide a backdrop for the town's colourful Pageant of the Juni - is well worth a day's exploration; and the town's proximity to the alpine resort of Poiana Brasov , the fortified Saxon churches of Harman and Prejmer, and "Dracula's Castle" at Bran, make Brasov an excellent base. The best views of the old town are from the forested heights of Mount Tâmpa (967m) to the south, accessible by cable car (Tues-Sun 9.30am-9pm) or by the various paths which wind up to the summit. The resort of POIANA BRASOV is set at an altitude of 1000m, at the foot of the spectacular Mount Postavaru, 12km southwest of Brasov. There is skiing here from December to March on a variety of runs: the Intim and Drum Rosu are the easy ones, the Lupului and Sub Teleferic the steepest. While it's considered a great place to learn to ski, with lots of keen English-speaking instructors, experienced skiers are likely to get bored. Lessons are organized by the tourist office (daily 8am-8pm) in the Complex Favorit, which can also arrange guides for year-round hiking. Skiing equipment can be rented at the Alpin, Ciucas, Soimul and Sport hotels, mountain bikes are available at the Caraiman , and car rental is available through Budget at the Alpin . The discos in the Sport, Bradul and Soimul hotels run from 10pm to 4am, and folk-dancing shows are laid on for groups at the Miorita hotel. The rustic-looking Capra Neagra is in fact is a nightclub , open until 1am, with the same tacky floorshows as in the Bucharest clubs; the Favorit , in the commercial centre, has a less exotic variety programme, as well as bowling and dancing .